A bunch of 4 intrepid ladies decided to take on this adventure. Well that it was! For 8 days we tramped and toiled our way along the Dusky Track. We knew it was going to be tough but we were ambitious.
Day 1 Thurs – 30/1/25 – We were picked up by Johan to travel by minibus to the start of our 8 day journey. Where we travelled across Lake Hauroko (NZ’s deepest lake) to the head. All up initially there were 13 people on the boat but once we dispersed onto the track we went at our own pace. Two very fit girls who had recently walked Te Araroa trail did two huts every day on the Dusky. While us grey grannies (for some as we were soon nicknamed) did our own leisurely pace.
We found on most days the times on the track took us a lot longer as its takes longer for 4 people to cross the 21 two wire bridges than a small group. Also we were there to enjoy the scenery and at our pace. Most days we were averaging around 8 to 10 hours walking and arriving at the hut before tea with weary bodies. There was also quite a bit of windfall with large trees to clamber over which is sometimes difficult with short legs!
Lake Hauroko to Halfway Hut. It took us 8 hours today. The track was flat initially and then climbed gently. The bush was lovely with mosses and odd mushrooms. By the time we arrived at the hut there were just 7 staying staying there as the others had continued onto the next hut.
Day 2 Fri – 31/1/25
We departed Hauroko Hut at 8am to head to Lake Roe Hut. There was some windfall in places and also some mud to negotiate. Seemingly it had been a very dry season this year so we were lucky but we were still able to find some places of mud along the track some days where we got stuck up to our knees. The celmesias and gentians made a nice display. Once out of the bush we were gaining good views. The track climbed steeply to the bushline. We had to cross 3 two wire bridges and some were a little wobbly as the stays at the ends were loose. For one it was easier to cross through the water as levels were low. At one stage we lost one of the orange triangle markers so went of track a bit along a trapping line. So we refound our route. Interestingly we weren’t the only party to do this when we spoke with others. It was quite muggy and humid. We arrived at Lake Roe around 3 which had taken us 7 hours to get there. After a quick brew we walked up to Lake Roe and the multiple tarns. It was such a great feeling to be walking without a pack. We felt like we could fly.
What a stunning scene it is up there. With massive granite outcrops. Judy and Christine decided for a brief dip while I enjoyed a freshen up in the water. Hazel enjoyed the scenery from the rocky outcrops. It was a lovely way to spend the rest of the afternoon. We felt like we had earned it. Lake Roe Hut was a 10 bunk light and airy hut. It was decision time then which of our 9 dehy meals would we have tonight! Also at the hut were 2 French guys who walked the track and mostly tented out. One even saw a kiwi that night and showed us photos the next day. And another Scottish couple who travelled at stayed at most of the huts or tented out also.
Day 3 Sat – 1/2/25 Lake Roe to Loch Maree
This was only going to be 8km today. It was absolutely stunning along the tops of the Pleasant Range looking down on the multiple tarns. We also had spectacular views down into Dusky Sound. Once in the bush the track became very steep. With chains to negotiate and clamber down a rocky face. I found this quite difficult with a full pack and trying to keep balanced. Lucky for me Hazel and Judy and Christine were able to talk me thru this as definitely not the time to have a panic attack! Thanks team. Parts of this track can be prone to flooding after heavy rain but we were so lucky there had been no rain. We followed parts of the track cut by West Coast miners back in 1903. It took us 9 hours to reach the hut as parts were very slow due to tree roots and very slippery. We were all pleased to arrive at the hut around 5. Our bodies were beginning to feel weary now after day 3. Loch Maree is very pretty and quite airy with the old tree stumps still standing upright in the lake. Sandflies were abundant here so it was a case of keeping covered up or been eaten alive.
Day 4 Sun – 2/2/25 Loch Maree to Supper Cove
We left early again as we knew we had another big day ahead of us. Climbing around Loch Maree the track was flat initially but we did have several big windfalls to negotiate and deviate around these. After negotiating these we saw a lovely unnamed waterfall. Parts of the track became slippier. We had 3 more two wire bridges to cross which were a bit wobbly. As the tide was in that is why we had to take the high water route. In some places earlier we had to wade through some small side creeks which were waist deep. It was a joy to arrive at the hut some 11 hours later! A big day. Our bodies were feeling more battered and bruised now. Supper Cove was a lovely spot. Two of the Kiwi trampers went fishing there and caught a fish. While the French guys collected some mussels.
Day 5 Mon – 3/2/25 Supper Cove back to Loch Maree. We left Supper Cove just on low tide this time to avoid the high weather route. The tide had dropped but was still quite deep in the channel. Our Scottish fellow trampers were crossing from the other direction so we were able to see some of the shallower spots. Even though at times it was waist to breast deep for those with shorter legs. But it did save us some time and only took an hour across where the high weather route took nearly 2 hours. While we were leaving and looking back at Dusky Sound a small cruise ship had arrived in the sound. They probably thought we were idiots. We arrived back at the Loch Maree Hut and this night only the 2 Frenchman were there. My feet were feeling tender from all the slippery tree roots and rocks under your boots.
Day 6 Tues 4/2/25 Loch Maree to Kintail Hut
We departed Loch Maree in warm conditions. The track was dry but we were still able to find some muddy patches. We headed along the Seaforth River and it was quite boggy along Deadwood Creek. Judy put on a demonstration of not what to do in the mud and her leg was soon submerged in it which made it difficult to get out and extract. A good photo opportunity though for some! After some pulling we were able to extract her from the suction of the mud. Slurp what a noise. It was only 11km today but took us nine and a quarter hours due to track conditions, snack stops and photos and lunch along the way. Our bodies were feeling quite fatigued when we passed Gair Loch and arrived at Kintail Hut which has 12 bunks and we had the hut to ourselves. Today we saw tomtits and robins and heard wood pigeons.
Day 7 Wed 5/2/25
We were finding it harder to get up each day now but knew we had to be up early for another long day. It was sunny but mist covered the tops. Today we were heading over Centre Pass at 1051m. It was a steady climbing initially following Kintail Stream and over an old slip. On top of Centre Pass we had the most stunning 360 degree views. Time for an extended lunch stop up here. If you are ever up there look out for Hazels spork as she left it up there. It was a steady descent down from the pass to Upper Spey Hut 12 bunks on the valley floor. A great test for the knees. Here we were met again by our French companions.
Day 8 Thurs 6/2/25 Upper Spey Hut to Wilmot Pass road end and boat journey back across Manapouri.
Our last day. Our journey was coming to an end and we were all looking forward to simple luxuries in life again such as fresh fruit and veges and a shower. Our packs were beginning to feel lighter now. We left early as we didn’t want to miss the boat back. We continued along Spey River which was pretty with some nice deep holes along the way. It had rained overnight so things were a bit slippery. It was slightly drizzly and misty on the tops but dry under the bush canopy. Today we had quite a bit of windfall to negotiate again. It was amazing to see how high the water levels had been with the driftwood scattered around the place. Our progress seemed slow to start with but as we got along certain parts of the bush it became easier (maybe we were super fit now). We popped out at the road end around 2 and then had the 3km trudge down the Wilmot shingle road to the boat. Passing West Arm Hut along the way so popped in to check it out. As we arrived at the info centre awaiting for the boat the sandflies were there to greet us. Eve had just pulled in with the boat so called us on board early and we were treated like royalty with a bag of chips and refreshing cool drink to sip on. Such luxury. Then we were able to sit up in the steering house and watch all the other well dressed passengers arrive and come on to the boat while we sat up in the front with our skipper and viewed all the modern technology used to steer us back across Lake Manapouri.
It had been a wonderful and tiring and thoroughly enjoyable 8 day adventure.
Thank you so much to Hazel for organising it and to Judy and Christine my fellow tramping buddies. A trip to remember for a long time.
Script writer Catherine